Must Read | Sign of the Times: The New Speed of Fashion, by Suzy Menkes

Image courtesy of T, The New York Times Style Magazine
“Runway looks from the fall collections that will be photographed by magazines but most likely never find their way to consumers, from far left: Gareth Pugh, Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Thom Browne, Versace.”
“But whoever said that logic and fashion make a good fit? As the fashion carousel spins ever faster, the concern is that, while the stream of newness never runs out, there’s going to be a good deal more crash and burn among designers in the future.” – Suzy Menkes
Working directly with both emerging and established fashion designers over the many seasons I’ve been in the industry, I’ve seen and heard first hand the incredible pressure that is placed on them – and the pressure they place on themselves – to create a sellable collection that retailers will want to purchase, but will also attract the eyes of fashion editors.
Each season, it’s the same thing; finding the inspiration for the collection, sourcing fabrics, trying desperately to attract the attention of sponsors to help cover the costs of their shows, booking sales appointments with buyers, following up on production schedules, fufilling those orders, falling into near financial ruin when retailers cancel orders or don’t pay, all while trying to balance the business side with the creative and appeal to consumers. It’s a never ending circle of rise and fall, hope and disappointment, all in a race to keep up with demand.
For the Canadian market, our designers do tend to stick to the traditional two seasons, where as internationally, the pressure seems far stronger to produce up to ten collections a year. While the Fall/Winter lines are hitting store shelves, designers in Canada have shot their look books for SS14 and are booking sales appointments for Spring/Summer 2014 and pre-planning Fall/Winter 2014. (Or at least they should be – if not designers, what are you doing!?!? Get on that!)
There is a great article in the NYT’s T Magazine by Suzy Menkes today, “Sign of the Times: The New Speed of Fashion” which I think everyone who works within the industry should read.
I’ve always been baffled by when the seasons hit the stores. Buy a winter coat in summer!?!? Are you crazy? And I work in fashion! But there are those consumers out there who want it now! Who cannot even wait from when they see the runway shows online six months before they hit the racks – those are fashion’s ideal client. They pay full price for what they want and they’ll preorder in advance.
For me, I guess you’ll find me scouring the reminants of the sales floor come November when the first nippy night happens.
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